Be afraid. Be very afraid.
No, but seriously, Songkran – otherwise known to one and all as Thai New Year Festival – is the craziest time of year for Thailand, and believe us, you really want to be in Bangkok for the event.
Songkran is spread out over a week, and the main form the celebration takes is, well, a giant water fight. Honestly. But we’re not talking a few squirts with those mini water pistols that you get out of Christmas crackers, we’re talking the water guns that look like missile launchers, hoses, and, when all else fails, just large buckets of water, all being thrown about so that the streets fast resemble walking through a series of fountains. And this isn’t just the Irresponsible Youth of Today – this is everyone in Thailand capable of picking up a water-shooting implement. Six year olds are armed with the biggest water guns they can carry, and will, in a very cute fashion, shoot you as you pass. Their smiles will have you forgiving them in a heartbeat.
The other element that is added here is that of flour. This is where things get messy. Be prepared for people to run up to you with a cement-like mix of flour pellets and water, and to dip their fingers in and smear it all over your face. And your hair. And your clothes. If you can get your hands on a bag of flour pellets, you have some kind of defence.
The main area where this craziness takes place is the backpacker area surrounding Khao San Road, and all along the streets around it, including the entire length, it seems, of Samsen Road. This is where you want to be. As you leave your hotel, you will literally be hit with what feels like a wall of water, and it isn’t going to stop until you’re in the next dry place. If this is going to irritate you, then just don’t leave the building. Walking along being soaked can be a little wearing, but fear not, there are many water guns and buckets on sale in the street – stock up on a couple, fill them up at the fire hydrants that have all been opened for the occasion, and give as good as you get.
The shop owners around the popular areas, particularly Khao San Road, know the drill – they close down for the festival, or at least open only from about 6am until 9am on the festival dates, when most of the revellers are still in bed recovering from the night before. Usually a sign on the shop door – NO WATER! – suffices at this time. But, quite understandably not wanting their merchandise soaked, they shut up shop for the rest of the time and just join in the water fight. What this amounts to is that you can’t do any last minute shopping when this time is on, even if you could get it out of the shop and safely back to your hotel rooms without having a bucket of water tipped over it. Do your shopping well in advance, or wait until it’s all over.
Make sure, before leaving your hotel room, that you are wearing clothes that will still be decent if they are soaked through. The Thais are quite a reserved people, and the sight of black bras completely visible through drenched white t-shirts is a bit embarrassing. On the other hand, this particular area is packed with Western tourists who have no respect for this anyway and frequently wander around in bikini tops and hot pants (or flat-out topless for the blokes), so maybe you wouldn’t be too out of place. Up to you. But either way you should definitely wear a hat and sun cream – the strength of the Thai sun added to water-soaked skin magnifying the rays equals some painful sun burn.
And one more factor – any vehicles that brave the route down these roads are going to have to face gallons of water being thrown at their windscreens. If you’re in a taxi, this isn’t too terrible (despite the danger factor), because of the brilliant invention of windscreen wipers. But if you’re in a tuk-tuk, never the safest thing on the roads at the best of times, the driver’s vision will be obscured and you will be at the mercy of the hoses. Just thought we’d mention.
But essentially, it’s all fantastic fun, so get into the spirit and get soaked. And soak people back! No one will mind. It’s a chance to get messy, get wet and have fun, while still having universal approval from the whole country. Spot on.