The small city of Vilnius – population approximately 600,000 – is an absolute gem of a place. Stunning buildings, nice restaurants, gorgeous cobbled streets and a peaceful atmosphere that you rarely find in an ex-Soviet country. You’ll love chilling out here and strolling through the city. Go to Vilnius before it gets as swamped with tourists as Krakow and Prague, or before it gets adopted as an unofficial stag night city like Riga.
Transport
If you fly into Vilnius’s airport, you’ll be pleased to know that it’s only 5km south of the city, and immigration is quick and easy, particularly if you’re from the EU. There is an ATM machine in the arrivals hall, and you can break any huge notes in the kiosks there. There’s also an exchange place for those of you avoiding using cards. A taxi from here will cost about 40lts, or you can get bus number 1 from the bus stop on the left as you exit the arrivals hall, which will cost all of about 1.40lts. You really will need coins for this, so don’t forget to break your money in the airport. This’ll take you to the train station in town.
Vinius Old Town is largely walkable – it takes about 30 minutes to walk from one end to the other, or from the river to the Gates of Dawn. However, if you were wishing to get the bus or tram to the train station, tickets are available from news kiosks close to the main stops. You don’t buy them on board. You must stamp your ticket in the stamping machines when you board the tram or bus. This puts a timer on them. If you get caught without a stamped ticket on a bus or tram you will have to pay a fine, but it must be said that we’ve never seen ticket inspectors patrolling the public transport of Vilnius.
The train station is right next to the bus station. From the bus station you can get transport to nearby towns or villages. For bigger cities or international overland travel it’s best to go with the trains.
If you arrive in Vilnius by train, you will notice that the train station is surprisingly clean and nice. This is thanks to a fairly recent refurb, which has made travellers’ entrance into Lithuania far more pleasant. You should probably be aware, however, that there are still the usual stereotypical characters hanging around – drunks, homeless and petty thieves. Not to worry – just keep an eye on your belongings, as always. There is a taxi rank outside, just over the road. There are also trams and buses that go from right outside. Basically, you’re spoiled for choice.
The taxis are actually pretty good. Almost all are on metres, but you should always ask how much it will cost anyway. Metres can be kicked up, and there’s always a long one-way system that taxis drivers on metres can exploit. If you book taxis from your hostel, they will almost certainly be cheaper than if you get them from a taxi rank. Hey, that’s life.
Stuff you absolutely have to see
The Genocide Museum
Starting off with a cheerful one there, this is one of the best exhibitions of how much Lithuania suffered during first WW2 and then the Soviet Regime. Although the exhibits are brilliantly presented with loads of information and examples, the key feature of this museum is that it is situated directly on top of an ex-KGB prison. The basement of the building, converted into cells, has been left largely untouched, complete with blood-stained strait-jacket. The execution room has, thankfully, had glass panelling placed over the original floor for preservation, and displays the remains of victims of this terrible place. You can get an audio set for an extra fee for the basement if you want, but we reckon it’s bad enough down there with the details supplied on the walls. Try not to go down there alone. It’s scary.
Some of those churches...
Namely, St Casimir’s church, with those incredible pillars of pink and baby blue marble. This church was converted into an atheism museum during the Soviet Regime. You should also see St. Anne’s church, an incredibly intricate structure of small red bricks – 33 different shapes, in fact. This is less spectacular on the inside, but the outside is great for a photo spot. And, oh yeah, don’t forget the cathedral. You can hardly miss it – it dominates the Town Square between the Old and New Towns. It’s so shiny and white because it got a bit of a white-washing session for the new pope when he came for a visit. It dates back to 1419, although it has had several face-lifts and much repair work done to it after a few fires over the years.
The Castle
Lurking high up on a hill overlooking the Cathedral you will see the Castle. You can walk up (or get the funicular if you’re lazy – it’s not far) and get some lovely views of Vilnius from the top. The castle dates back from the 13th century and houses a small but fairly interesting museum. A lot of the labels are in Lithuanian, but there are several models of how the castle and defences were at various points in history. But it’s largely worth paying to get into the castle itself because you can get right to the top and feel superior to those who are admiring the view from the bottom. I’m the king of the castle, and all that.
Gates of Dawn
Set in what is left of the original city walls, you will find the Gates of Dawn. They are from the 16th century, and about them you will see a Carmelite chapel housing an icon of a black Madonna which is said to have healing powers. Consequently, there is always a steady stream of people heading through the doorway on your left as you face the chapel, going up to the chapel itself. Go have a look.
Food and general gorging
Vilnius is great for restaurants. It’s got some very nice restaurants of many different cuisines, and they’re mostly pretty inexpensive. One thing you should be prepared for, though, is appalling service. Don’t take it personally – it’s not just you, in fact it’s not just Lithuania. Most of Eastern Europe is like this. The wait-staff are sullen, moody, unhelpful and just plain not bothered. You must be endlessly patient with this and remember that losing your temper or complaining to the management will get you absolutely nowhere. Please don’t get us wrong – there are a few exceptions and the examples below will specify how awful the service really is. But on the whole it’s best to go in with the attitude that if they’re rude it’s par for the course, and if they’re sweetness and light then it’s a pleasant surprise... and they deserve a tip. There seems to be a movement among travellers to improve service: if the wait-staff are horrible, tip nothing; if they lovely, tip well. And lead by example – be smiley! You never know, maybe one day they’ll work out the pattern and realise that it’s worth their while to actually behave like humans.
Lokys - Stikliu 8, tel. 262 90 46, fax 262 52 67
We love this place, although there have been mixed reviews. Basically, you go downstairs (and they are extremely claustrophobic stairs – rest assured they do eventually come to an end) and enter an underground cavern full of little nooks and crannies with private rooms and more open areas. There are antlers and animal skins stuck to the walls, as befits a traditional Lithuanian restaurant, apparently. There are some pleasantly smiling waitresses in traditional outfits, and the menu comprises many typical and old fashioned Lithuanian dishes, including venison and wild boar. You can even eat beaver (don’t laugh), and we can tell you from experience that it’s actually rather nice. The service can be hit and miss – mostly the speed and friendliness is fine, but occasionally they’ll forget all about you. Worth the risk, though. Not too pricey, either, although not exactly what you’d call budget. Have the pork if you want something cheap yet yummy.
Uzupio Klasika - Užupio 28, tel. 215 36 77
The Uzupis district is a really rather bizarre concept – it’s a theoretically separate republic within Vilnius, set up by arty types back in the day who were just so, like, bohemian, you know. Head into Uzupio over a little bridge over a trickling river, and notice, as you do so that the bridge is covered with padlocks with the names of newly married couples, who have sealed their love under lock and key. A very new tradition, but hey. Traditions have to start somewhere. You’ll also see, if you look down from the bridge to the left, a sculpture of a whimsical mermaid. Arty. Anyway, just on the other side of the bridge you’ll see a riverside bar and restaurant jutting out over the river. This is Uzupio Klasika. Try and get a seat outside – book if there’re lots of you. The service is random – it can be very good (and even vaguely friendly), and there again it can take forever and they still sometimes get your order wrong. That said, the food is generally pretty good. Try the Royal Chicken – it’s goooood. And it’s a lovely place to hand out of an evening and have a few pints.
Gusto Blynine - Aušros Vartu 6, tel. 262 00 56
Pancakes with Gusto! No, really. This place does pancakes with every conceivable filling, whether sweet or savoury, and for rock bottom prices. And they’re extremely yummy. One point – the staff don’t speak wonderful English. There’s a menu on the wall with both English and Lithuanian translations. Ask for it in Lithuanian. Go on, we dare you. They’ll appreciate it. They’re not the friendliest bunch all the time, but it’s pretty efficient service and you pay when you order, so who cares?
Drinking and generally staying up past your bedtime
Vilnius has a surprisingly excellent nightlife – it’s varied, lively and generally not hideously expensive, which is always a plus. It’s also pretty chilled out, with a lack of certain Eastern European characteristics such as bouncers champing on the bit to bodily throw you out. A good experience all round, really. A few of our favourites are listed below.
NB there is a very heavy strip club and prostitution industry in Vilnius, and you don’t even have to look hard for it. All the city guides list loads of “massage parlours” etc. But frankly we see no reason to promote sex tourism. Sorry.
Uzupio Klasika - Užupio 28, tel. 215 36 77
Sorry, we know it’s mentioned above, but it really is a very nice spot for chilled out drinking. Try the local liqueurs and the Lithuanian lager. Have a relaxing time in a venue where you can actually hear your friends speak.
Ibish Lounge – Aušros Vartu 11, tel. 260 90 65
Another very chilled out place, but has become more cocktail-loungey of late. Very nice, very cool and chic, and not pretentious. Yet. Let us know when that happens so we can update.
Absento Fejos - Aušros Vartu 11, tel. 261 92 61, +370 699 787 77, fax 261 92 61
The only reason we’re mentioning this evil place is because you might be heading to Ibish Lounge and get confused with this one, as they’re just a couple of doors apart. Basically, this place used to be good and chilled out, then it got some popularity and proceeded to employ some horrible bouncers and implement what is known in Russia as Face Control. The rough translation of this is: If you’re not a model or a superstar, you’re not coming in. Losers. Since this is Vilnius, not Moscow, don’t give them the satisfaction of trying to get in.
Aristai PUB - Šv. Kazimiero 3, tel. 212 12 68
Set out in a gorgeous little courtyard, this place is a fun and friendly place, very arty but not pretentiously so. It can get rammed, but the staff seem to be pretty good at not getting drinks mixed up. Definitely lovely if you can get a table.
Pacha - Gyneju 14, tel. +370 620 220 44
Vilnius’s latest and greatest club. It’s all very shiny, flashy and colourful, and there’s a mainstream pop room as well as a slightly more head pounding proper dance and techno room. Great atmosphere – pretty people but lack of pretension. Have fun!
Pabo Latino – Traku 3/2, tel. 262 10 45
Latino charm and style dominates in this incredibly den that has been described by one city guide as a “Colombian drug lord’s manor but without the guns or moustaches”. It’s getting more popular and it ain’t the cheapest place in Vilnius, but it’s oh so worth going to.
Prospekto PUB –
This place used to be acknowledged as Vilnius’s best club until Pacha came along. But that doesn’t mean it’s any less good than it used to be. Lots of pretty people, lots of dancing and a nice atmosphere. Drinks can get a bit pricier than is reasonable, so make sure you get a menu to check that you’re being charged the right amount. That’s all we’ll say.