Siem Reap, Cambodia's second biggest city, is largely famous for one reason. One big reason, in fact, and that is its proximity to some of the world's most incredible temples - the Angkor complex. However, Siem Reap itself has many charms of its own which often get overlooked in all the excitement about the grandeur of the temples. Not that the temples aren't fabulous - they're Cambodia's most famous attribute for a good reason and we'll let you know all about them, too. But we want Siem Reap to get the credit it definitely deserves.
Getting there and around when you're there
You have three options in getting to Siem Reap; namely by plane, road or boat; the method you choose depends largely on where you're coming from. Here we go...
Flying
If you are knocking around Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City and you think a nice trip to see the temples might be a good idea, you really must consider flying, for reasons that we will make clear below. The flights are not expensive (something in the region of US $100-150) and Siem Reap airport, though small, is not too bad. It can be tempting, when you are starting from either of the above cities, to take up the travel companies on their seemingly too-good-to-be-true offers of bus rides to Siem Reap. Well, there's a reason they seem too good to be true. Keep reading to find out why...
Road
As mentioned above, if you are coming from another country, you really should fly. If you're coming from Ho Chi Minh City, it's about a twelve hour overland journey beginning at the crack of dawn, although admittedly you will be on an actual sealed road. Often in this case the bus stops at Phnom Penh and you find yourself bewilderedly looking for the last onward bus to Siem Reap, which, after seven hours on the road jammed into a coach with locals and all their belongings, is a hassle you can do without. If you're coming from Bangkok, the US $12 through-tickets from Bangkok to Siem Reap look very appealing indeed, but allow us to ruin the illusion: They don't work. Sad but true. Thai bus drivers simply aren't allowed to take their vehicles over the border and through Cambodia. So they dump you at the border, leaving you to try and get a local bus, which will only leave when it is full to bursting (which could take hours, needless to say), for which you will have to pay.
The real problem with the overground method was, until very recently, that the road between Poipet at the Thai border and Siem Reap was the worst road known to man, given that it was, in essence, the motorway of the country! However, as of March 2008, they have slowly but surely started paving it, and hopefully in a decade or so we'll be able to make that journey without needing a chiropractor afterwards or having to scoop the dirt and dust out of our ears for weeks. We'll let you know when that particular road is less of a nightmare, but, for now, fly. If you are either completely broke or spectacularly adventurous (brave as two short planks etc), the one good thing that can be said for this overland route is that the scenery is very nice, if extremely flat.
If, on the other hand, you are coming from Phnom Penh, the overland route is a very pleasant (but again, flat) five or so hours by bus on sealed road, and definitely fine to do. If you're coming from Sihanoukville you must get the bus to Phnom Penh and then go from there. If, by some weird chance, you are coming from Battambang, you can go by road, which goes via Sisophone. Despite technically being out of the way, this route is still quicker than by boat. For boat options, keep reading...
Boat
The mighty Tonle Sap Lake has long been used for transport by the Cambodians, and there are still many boats going from both Phnom Penh and Battambong to Siem Reap. Whether you chose to take this route is another matter; certainly, between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap it's not only a colossal waste of time and highly uncomfortable, but also slightly dangerous, with the boats having no railings and no way of getting out if it sank. Same sort of thing between Siem Reap and Battambong; takes half as long again as by road, despite the picturesque scenery, and incredibly uncomfortable. Add to that the fact that it's really only practical in the rainy season when the water is high enough, and it's not unheard of for boats to get stuck, and it's clear that our recommendation is for the road. The thing is, lots of guide books love the boat-option; travelling like the locals and all that. But chances are you won't have long in Cambodia - why waste your time doing something uncomfortable? Up to you.
And as for getting around...
As mentioned before in articles about Vietnamese cities, the easiest and cheapest ways of getting around are by motorbike or tuk-tuk, both of which will come complete with chauffeur. These guys hang out on street corners, and a simple look in their direction will ensure they immediately call out to you to sell their wares. One side of Siem Reap to the other should be no more than a dollar. Out to the temples should be $3-5 and to hire one for the day to drive you around the Angkor complex should be about $15. Bargain. We know it sounds a bit dodgy from a Westerner's perspective, but really, this is how it's done here.
What to do in Siem Reap
Now this is a quiet little town, let's not make any mistake about it. It's great for relaxing. But that doesn't mean there aren't things to do, and here are a few ideas:
Old Market
This is a really nice little market, following the classic Cambodian layout of lots of different sections surrounding a central food bit. And yes, as with all Cambodian markets, the food bits will have freshly skinned pig heads, buckets of still-twitching fish and all sorts of other aesthetic delights that Western society prefers not to dwell on when they tuck into their Sunday roasts. If this is going to turn your stomach, we suggest you stick to the outskirts of the market as much as possible. But honestly, it's all a cultural experience; why else do you travel?
Traditional Khmer Dance
Khmer dancing has certain similarities in style and costume to Thai dancing, and is nowadays known as Apsara Dance. Its portrayals include both traditional rural scenes and mythical depictions, both with lavish costumes, and several restaurants in Siem Reap provide shows for your entertainment. An inexpensive option is the Temple Bar on Pub Street, which has an upstairs restaurant area and a nightly show. To warn you now, it?s accompanied by loud, traditional Khmer music which is... noisy. And a little grating. But the show is still very cool indeed.
Tonle Sap Lake
Taken as a kind of half-day out of Siem Reap, your guest house will no doubt be able to set up on a bit of a river cruise, should you so wish. Tonle Sap is half a lake, half a river (don't ask. It's complicated. Wikipedia it if you're thirsting for knowledge) and the largest body of fresh water in SE Asia. Incredibly, though, this declaration of hugeness only applies at certain times of year, as the lake expands from just under 3000sq km to 16000sq km, and from 1m to a staggering 9m deep, in monsoon season. Anyway, a boat trip is a nice thing to do because there are many lake villages and families, often of Vietnamese and Cham descent, living on the water, and it's incredible to see the peaceful, serene way of life. Certainly an eye-opener.
Artisans d'Angkor - Silk Farm
A 30 or so minute tuk-tuk ride away from the centre of Siem Reap, the Angkor Artisans Centre is a celebration of the traditional arts and crafts of Cambodia, where they are reproduced to this day. One of the things worth seeing is the Silk Farm. Here you can be shown through the process of silk-weaving from the collection of it from silkworms to the final dying process. You'll see some of the most beautifully produced silk ever. You can, of course, buy some if you want, but it is expensive (as pure, proper silk often is), and you are under no obligation to buy if you're just there to look.
Beatocello and Jayavarman VII Children's Hospital
Founded by a Swiss paediatrician, Dr. Beat Richner, this children's hospital is probably one of the best in Siem Reap. The founder himself is also a cellist and gives free concerts (Beatocello) at the hospital on Friday and Saturday nights, during which time he also gives talks about the health and medical situation in Cambodia. Richner's hospitals are an impressive attempt to deal with Cambodia's severe health problems. Anyway, one of the things you as a tourist can do to help Cambodia out as you swan through it is to give blood. Don't worry, it's all perfectly sterile, and, in fact, they only take half a pint in stark comparison to the pint taken in the UK and they even give you cola and cookies afterwards. And it is, it goes without saying, a wonderful thing you can do to help.
Landmine Museum Relief Fund
Another example of a fantastic attempt to deal with one of Cambodia's biggest problems - the land mines. In a nutshell, after a horrific series of invading/occupying countries doing their thing in Cambodia, the country is riddled with landmines. Since nobody bothered to mark where they were put it's difficult to know exactly how many are left scattered around the country, but estimates put it somewhere around the mark of 6 million. Other estimates put it as high as 10 million. And the most thorough and driven effort to fix the problem seems to be the work of one man: Aki Ra. Aki Ra, like most of the youth of Cambodia that survived the Pol Pot regime, once worked for the Khmer Rouge laying landmines. And now he has made it his mission to get rid of them, on foot, armed with nothing more than a stick to gently run over the land in front of him to detect the mines. He diffuses them by hand.
On top of this, Aki Ra runs an orphanage side by side with the landmine museum specifically for young victims of landmine explosions. These amputees gain rehabilitation, education and employment wherever possible. And you can go and visit the landmine museum, donate to the cause and learn more about this sensitive subject. Not to be missed.
And we'd better mention the temples...
Yup, Angkor Wat is exceptionally famous, exceptionally breath-taking and moreover you should definitely go as soon as possible before all the people trampling all over it wear it away so much that the government decides to rope it off a la Stone Henge. It surely can't be long now - they've already started putting walkways in and around Ta Prohm, the temple most famous for its use in the film Tomb Raider. The tickets are valid for the entire Angkor complex, and the cost US $20 per day or US $40 for three days (and you'll need a passport photo for that). Here are the big ones:
Angkor Wat -
Of course. The main temple, where hundreds of people blindly flock in the dark, waiting for the sun to illuminate the stunning architecture. Later in the day you should make the effort to climb the absurdly steep stairs up to the very top and get a look at the view. Careful up there; we've never heard of anyone slipping and falling to their deaths but there could always be a first time. Use both hands and feet.
Ta Prohm -
Made famous, as we mentioned above, by the Tomb Raider film, Ta Prohm is something special. It's one of the most fantastically overgrown temples in the place, largely because the parasitic trees are now so deeply imbedded in the architecture that if they were taken out the temples would fall down. It's spooky and atmospheric, and it's most people's favourite Angkor temple.
Bayon Temple -
And technically this was in fact the most overgrown temple there was, but somehow work was done to clear it without toppling the whole thing and revealed was what is sometimes known as the Temple of Smiling Faces. It's an incredible construction with hundreds of pillars with four-side facing heads smiling serenely at you.
Angkor Thom -
The gateway to Angkor Wat towers over you. Elephants and their minders loiter peacefully outside. Angkor Thom was the last city to stand before the fall of the mighty Khmer Empire. You will inevitably go through Angkor Thom to get to Bayon Temple, so jump out of your tuk-tuk and check out the three-headed elephants.
Banteay Srei -
A little further spaced out than the other more central temples, Banteay Srei is definitely worth a visit. Maybe an hour or so from Siem Reap by tuk-tuk, the route out there goes through some gorgeous rural villages and passes by some giant abandoned temples that seem to have some suspiciously Romanesque designs. Banteay Srei is famous for its remarkably enduring intricate carvings and its unusual red colour.
And of course there are far more; just ask your guest-house/hostel when you're there, or your tuk-tuk driver might be able to recommend somewhere. But these are the big ones.
And the warnings -
Billions of pickpocket-type kids begging you with those big, soulful brown eyes for "Jus' one doe-laaahhhhhh". Don't be fooled; they're probably tougher than you.Tuk-tuk drivers who ask you for extra money while they go get your ticket for you. You can get your own - a day-pass should be no more than US $20.
Over-charging on souvenirs/water and the like. It's common - generally you should try and get the price to about a third of what these guys ask. Hone your haggling skills.
Nuns and monks who spend time or even live in the temples - show some respect for them; they have to put up with thousands of visitors a year. But if they press flowers or incense sticks into your hands then please understand that you are being asked to make a donation.
In case we haven't made it clear, allow us to spell out that you will need transport around Angkor. It's huge. You can't walk it. On the other hand there are billions of tuk-tuks around, as well as motor-bikes willing to take you anywhere.
Oh, and remember your hat, shades and sunscreen. You're going to be in the sun all day, and it's HOT. Don't get sunstroke.
Eating in Siem Reap
Mmm, you'd be surprised. There is some goooood food. We've listed here some of our favourite restaurants, but first just a quick word of warning. Cambodia's somewhere where street food should be eaten very cautiously, and there aren't much in the way of opportunities in Siem Reap for this. You can get lots of traditional Khmer food, but give the street stuff a miss until you get to Phnom Penh.
Soup Dragon - Pub Street
One of our favourites, this three-level bar/restaurant has a really nice atmosphere, delicious food, cheap drinks and friendly staff. Great place; you'll love it.
Red Piano - Pub Street
And right at the other end of Pub Street we have the Red Piano. This is like a slightly more Western, slightly more upmarket version of soup dragon with not quite as good food or staff. On the other hand, the cocktails are great.
Khmer Kitchen - alley parallel to Pub Street on the Old Market side
Became famous for the yummy traditional food and the fact that someone like David Bowie or Bob Geldof once got some grub here. And it's definitely worth going here, but make sure you book because it gets packed and don't expect the staff to be super-friendly or super-efficient - the fact is, they're just not.
Temple Bar - Pub Street
One of our favourites, Temple Bar is a two-level building with eating upstairs and partying downstairs (see more below in the drinking section for that). The food is a typical mix of Khmer and Western, it's great value and there's a massive choice. Occasionally they have a Khmer buffet, too, which is good. And from about 7.30pm until 9pm they have the above-mentioned traditional Khmer dance show - for free!
Blue Pumpkin - 365 Mondol 1
Craving a sanctuary, a haven? Blue pumpkin is definitely that. As you enter, it'll seem like not much more than a rather nice bakery. But go up the stairs straight ahead of you, keep going to the top, walk through the door and enter... what looks and feels suspiciously like heaven. All those white bed-like sofas, the peaceful chill-out music, the wi-fi and air-con all adds up to the place you want to be if you have a hangover or if you want to briefly escape the dusty Cambodian streets. Oh, and the food and drink is fabulous, and the staff are generally lovely.
Cafe Indochine - Sivatha Road
A somewhat more upmarket place, this is where you should head for a treat and more exclusive meal. It's good stuff; nice atmosphere and good food.
FCC - Pokambor Ave.
This place did so well in Phnom Penh that they opened one here. FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club) is known for being an expensive but oh-so-good place to eat some good grub and knock back a cocktail or two. By Cambodian standards it's pricey, but console yourself with the thought of how much this sort of food and drink would cost you at home. And try to hit happy hour, 5-7pm, for two-for-one cocktails. They also have wireless if you're that type of traveller.
Drinking in Siem Reap
Being a place that caters very heavily to the tourists, there are many options for everyone, ranging from those who'd like a few quiet drinks and a chat with their friends to those who'd like to get absolutely plastered and forget all the culture they've picked up during the day. A few points first, though. One, there is still an awful lot of prostitution in Cambodia. Obviously, it's more apparent in Phnom Penh, but it's bad enough here, and you can hardly remain unaware of it. Try your hardest not to get angry with the disgusting, drunken, usually overweight, vile Western men who are grabbing at these women on the dance floors. Getting into fights in Cambodia is not what you want, we promise. And actually, the women won't thank you for it; they'll just have lost their evening's business. Sorry to be blunt. Two, beware the Cambodian alcohol. It's not what you get at home, and it might make you behave in ways you don't intend. Take it cautiously. Three, yep, the rumours are true: you can get marijuana pizzas. Sorry, but we're not going to promote drug use in SE Asian countries. If you're determined, we're sure you can figure it out for yourselves. And four, the nightlife scene takes place in the bars, and they sort of turn into clubs. You don't have to go and fid a club; these places stay open for ages.
Pub Street
Head to Pub Street at night for a totally different experience. Almost all restaurant turn into bars, and the atmosphere is great. It is quite Western, but hey. What can you do except go with the flow?
Temple Bar - Pub Street
We told you above about the restaurant and the dance show, but now is the time to mention the downstairs bar. Many cocktails (fairly roughly made, but they do the job) and they come by the glass or the bucket (remember what we said above about taking it easy!). The music gets very western pop and rock, the dance floor fills up and it's all quite a good atmosphere. There are two pool tables if you're up for it. Only shame is the prostitution here, but hey. The NGOs are working on it.
Angkor What? Bar - Pub Street
One of Siem Reap's most famous bars. This place is opposite Temple Bar and so competes for business, but on the other hand the music is more rocky and there are fewer prostitutes. Generally a great atmosphere with people dancing on the benches etc.
FCC - Pokambor Ave.
As mentioned above, FCC does some amazing cocktails and is definitely worth a visit. Because it's off the Pub Street route it's less raucous which is nice.
Martini Disco - Other side of bridge past the Old Market
And this is where the locals go! This is a plus and a minus - pros involve checking out the local party atmosphere and the Khmer music. The minuses involve the preferential and sometimes downright dodgy treatment of the Western tourists that goes on here, and the Khmer music. Definitely worth checking out while you're here, but be prepared for seediness.